The Tables We Remember: Belonging at Delphi Lodge in Ireland

I've been thinking about tables lately.

Not beautiful tables, necessarily. Not perfectly set ones. The tables where something happens simply because people sit down together.

The Dordogne is one of my favourite parts of France, and Le Vieux Logis sits right in the middle of the village of Trémolat, a beautiful old building with gardens that go on further than you expect them to. It is the kind of place that works for a date for one, or two, or even for a wedding.

Two restaurants in particular keep me coming back to this stretch of water. The Kitchin and Restaurant Martin Wishart. Two Michelin stars within a few minutes’ walk of each other, on a short street sitting on a working harbour. That is an unreasonable concentration of good cooking.